Sunday, August 30, 2009

Out of Africa, Part 7: Road Trip

Wednesday and Thursday, July 22 and 23
Planning done, suitcases packed, and backpacks in tow, the five of us left Zanzibar island on Wednesday enroute for the mainland in preparation for what we called our "road trip." Jason, Annikah, Jim and I headed to the ferry port and once again had the opportunity to ride the "puke boat" to Dar es Salaam.

Roxanne would travel over by air, one of the special priviledges of being a nauseous expectant mom! We were sure to take our Dramamine ahead of time, and it really did the trick - sort of lulled us to sleep and prevented us from succumbing to motion sickness. We reached Dar about lunchtime, hired a cab, and headed to the guest house (with a Subway stop on the way for lunch). This is one of the places that Roxanne dreams about when craving something "western" while on the island. Dropped off the suitcases, picked up the van at the guest house, and drove to the airport to pick up Roxanne. We all enjoyed western style burgers and fries at Spur, another one of JaRox's fav places on the mainland. Up early on Thursday, we piled into the van to begin our nine hour trip to Arusha. I think this road trip was definitely one of our most difficult (but interesting) Survivor challenges. Have I already mentioned the challenges of driving in Africa??? First is driving Britain-style- steering wheel on the right; driving on the left. But that's just the beginning. The roads are narrow and bumpy; and even in the country, people will be on foot, on bicycles carrying huge loads, or guiding overloaded cow/donkey carts. I don't remember seeing too many signs along the road, such as "no passing," or yellow lines painted on the road to signify that; or speed limit signs. They may have been there, but I was riding in the back of the van constantly interacting with Annikah, so maybe I just didn't notice. No need for "slow down" or lower speed limit signs as you enter a village, either, because numerous speed bumps are in place so you have no choice. And it's not just one or two - each village had an entire series of 2 - 3 speed bumps at a time. No wonder Roxanne's stomach was lurching. One other item lacking on this trip was rest areas (with bathrooms) and/or gas stations with bathrooms. In one little village we stopped at a decent-looking hotel, bought a soda, and asked the location of the bathrooms. They were not what I had hoped for - here I am, armed with my TP, not so sure whether I wanted to aim for the hole in the ground. (There are brick platforms on either side of the hole for your feet; you can see that the walls, especially near the floor, do not look the cleanest . . . )Other times we opted for using the bushes along the way. If there were no bushes, no worry, just use the open air, as seen in this picture. When you gotta go, you gotta go! After this trip, I was known to say that I'll never again complain about having to use a porta-potty!

In each village the people had something to sell. We saw lots of oranges for sale and many beautiful fresh vegetables. We stopped for a bag of veggies to supplement the other food Jason and Roxanne had brought to eat while they stayed in their little banda (cottage) for a few days while we would be on safari.

As always, the children were curious about the wazungus, and would crowd around and pose for pictures.

Jim enjoyed spotting anything Pepsi along the way.

And village after village displayed what we would call a backward and primitive way of life. Homes were really just huts, yards no more than the dirt the huts were built on; and always, litter and garbage was strewn everywhere.

We were thankful to arrive safely at our destination - the little banda where Jason, Roxanne, and Annikah would relax for a few days, and where all of us would spend this night. The evening was cool - we all put on sweatshirts and jeans and settled in for a night of rest.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

***Commercial Break*** A word from our sponsors: Claire, Silas and Joel

So I have to take a quick break from the Africa saga to post what's been happening here at home with the grandkids. I just couldn't resist buying this coat/hat ensemble for Claire. She loved trying it on, and screamed when I took it off! It was just too hot in August to wear it any longer!
We took Joel and Silas on a quick trip to "Africa" last Saturday so that they could see some of the sights for themselves! They even got to go "on safari." We had a great time with them at the Niabi Zoo in the quad cities area.
On their safari, they got to drive their own jeep! And they experienced some great animal sightings along the way!
It was a fun day - we also got to visit "Australia," a petting zoo, tropical bird house, plus lots of other adventures that included sightings of panthers, black bears, porcupines, anacondas, pythons, alligators, and many more. The train ride through the park was an adventure in itself, especially passing through the long, dark tunnel. So . . . if you don't have the time or money right now for the REAL Africa, how about taking in a day at the Niabi Zoo??

Monday, August 24, 2009

Out of Africa, Part 6: Island Explorations (cont.)

Tuesday, July 21- Prison IslandToday Jason, Roxanne, and Annikah hosted us on another tropical island adventure! We rented our own private boat and were off to Chungu - better known to tourists as Prison Island (please note Jason's "manskirt" in picture). The island holds historical interest as the buildings on the island were meant to house prisoners at one time, but instead served as a quarantine site. Who knows, if H1N1 hits Zanzibar soon, the buildings here may have to be used once again for something other than tourism!
This island is also home to the giant turtles that Annikah couldn't wait to show us. At first Bibi and Babu were afraid of such big turtles . . . but Annikah demonstrated how to feed them - she's a real pro at this - and then we weren't so afraid to try!
Once the turtles were fed, we were hungry so we walked down to the gorgeous, almost-private beach to enjoy our gourmet picnice of homemade hummus and fresh veggies in lime juice, served on homemade tortillas. Thank you, Roxanne, for such a yummy meal!Jason and Annikah found a huge starfish who nicely cooperated for a picture before being put back into the water. The rest of the afternoon the girls relaxed on the beach and hunted shells, while Jim and Jason went out for a good hour or more of snorkeling.We were not lacking for local entertainment while we relaxed on the beach. One interesting sight was this boat that went by - hmmm . . . just how many people do you think one small boat can hold and still stay afloat?? Another fun sight was when a boat of tourists docked near us on the beach. The tourists were all wearing bikinis (girls) and Euro trunks (guys - you know those really skimpy ones?); but the African boat driver was wearing a quilted ski-jacket type coat! I realize that July is their winter, but what??? We thought it was wonderful warm beach weather. I regret that I didn't have my camera ready for that one.Little Miss Annikah even allowed Babu to be her "best friend" for awhile as they played together in the water. She can really turn on the charm . . . look at this little doll. Who could resist that little face? On the boat ride back to Zanzibar, Annikah showed us how the African ladies dress. Back home we enjoyed pumpkin soup (made from a pumpkin grown in the backyard!) and spent the evening packing to be on our way to Dar in the morning to begin our road trip to Arusha.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Out of Africa, Part 6 - Island Explorations

Monday, July 20 - Safari Blue
This day Jim and I took advantage of an opportunity Jason knew about but has not yet experienced. It reminded us of the day-long excursions you can take do when you are on a cruise. The day trip is called "Safari Blue," and includes a trip to a private island, snorkeling, lunch on the island, unlimited beverages - a whole day of tropical paradise. We made the reservation the day before, but on Monday morning were somewhat skeptical of our decision since the sky was very dark and threatening and a light rain was falling. And the air was actually chilly! But we had committed, so off we went. Jason drove us to the starting point where the boat was "docked." We had to wade pretty far out into the water with all of our gear to get on the boat. Hmmm . . . What would this day be like?
As we headed out onto the rough water I happened to be sitting in the worst spot on the boat - the exact place the water splashed in each time we hit a huge wave. It would not have been a problem, of course, on a hot sunny day, but it was freezing - everyone was huddled under their towels to keep warm, and I was just sitting wrapped in my soaking wet kanga. For someone who doesn't even love swimming and water sports, I could be in trouble . . .
The first stop was a giant-sized sand bar where we disembarked and those who wanted to snorkel gathered up their gear and headed off to a huge coral reef.
Jim was off in a flash - I chose not to go (can't wear my hearing aids or my glasses in the water . . . what good is it to snorkel if you're so near-sighted you can't see anything?)
I relaxed on the beach and watched the guides cut open coconuts with their machetes.
Then I enjoyed drinking the coconut milk and chomping on pieces of fresh coconut. Things were beginning to look up . . .
Soon we got back on the boat and headed for the island. First a stop for swimming in the cove, then off to an amazing fresh seafood feast. We had two plates each - one with rice, sauce, and vegetables, and the other with 6 or 7 kinds of fresh fish (tuna, squid, octapus, prawns, lobster, etc.) This was followed by a fresh fruit tasting - we enjoyed many fruits we had never tasted before. The custard apple and passion fruits were two of my favs! Delicious! And by now the sky had cleared and the sun was shining . . . we were definitely glad we had come.
The rest of the afternoon included relaxing on the beach, a hike to climb the giant baobob tree, lots of beer and soda, and viewing a pair of porpoises playing on our sail back. It ended up being a wonderful day, and yes, it really was a tropical paradise.
Perfect ending of an almost-perfect day: sailing back in the sun, with a Stoney to sip on . . .

Monday, August 17, 2009

Out of Africa Part 5 (cont.): A Different World

We had opportunity to see how the local people go about their daily tasks- so different when compared to life as we know it. Martha is Jason and Roxanne's house helper. She comes to their home around 7:30 in the morning, Monday through Friday, and works for them until early afternoon. Roxanne and Martha together make all kinds of breads from scratch, including tortillas and English muffins, since you can't buy these things. On tortilla day, tortilla-making is about all that is accomplished, as Roxanne will make 50 or 60 tortillas at a time and then freeze them to use as needed. While we were there Martha made the most wonderful fresh mango juice a couple of times, and also fresh orange juice on the day we brought a bag or oranges home. She made chapatis, cooked the noon meal, made beds, mopped floors, washed dishes, and ironed clothes. She helps out with whatever needs to be done that day, and there is always plenty to do.
Here Martha is preparing the dough for chapatis. She prefers to sit on her small stool close to the floor to work rather than on the counter like we would do.
While we visited the family where Jason and Roxanne did their homestay when they first arrived on the island, I was invited into the cook house to watch while the ladies prepared chapatis. Though this family has a very nice house, the women spend most of the day in this separate cook house, cooking over red hot coals. After being in there for about five minutes, I was dripping with sweat and about ready to pass out. I can't imagine what it must be like in January and February when it's really hot! Immediately after the chapatis were fried, they were served to us - delicious - and then the remaining ones were sent home with us to enjoy later.
It was a humbling experience to have these women perform such a laborious task just so they could be hospitable and serve us while we were there.

Here is a picture of sweet little Zawadi, the daughter of James and Mama Zawadi, who are the caretakers on Jason and Roxanne's property. We just fell in love with this little girl. She warmed up to us right away and didn't seem frightened even though she had no idea what we were saying to her other than the two or three swahili words we would use. The family lives in the little house on the left, and cooks in the building on the right. (These two buildings are just across the walkway from Jason's house). James or Mama were always available to open the gate for us when we returned from being gone (part of their responsibility); and they sweep the patio, help carry packages into the house, wash Jason's car, etc.They also use some of Jason and Roxanne's land to grow spinach which they are able to sell for extra cash. After they harvest it, they immediately set new plants so they have a continuous crop. Jim was able to get a couple of pictures while they were at work. Of course little Zawadi was safely strapped onto her mama's back to keep her out of trouble.
She really seemed to like Bibi and Babu . . .


and often acts like Anni's little shadow. Sometimes she would wander into their house and make herself at home with Anni's toys. We wish we could have taken her home with us.

Friday, August 14, 2009

Out of Africa, Part 5: A Different World

In reviewing my posts so far, I realized that I've only shared the touristy parts of our trip - some of the things we did and the places we went - similar to what anyone would share coming back from a vacation. But this trip provided so much more than that, and so many of the memories I have, and the pictures I see in my mind are those that involve the completely different way of life that we witnessed. The way the people dressed, the means of transportation they use, the places they shop, the way they work will stay in my mind for years to come. So in this post I will try to share with you some of what makes Africa such a unique place. I realize that Africa is a HUGE continent, and we only visited one country - Tanzania - but what I saw is much the same as what I had previously seen in books, on T.V. , or in movies. Jim and I watched a great movie the other night entitled Nowhere in Africa, about a Jewish family from Germany who emigrated to Kenya to escape the Nazis during World War II. Now the timing of this movie was what - 1947? - but so much of it reminded us of exactly what we saw last month in Tanzania in 2009! The only difference is that now everyone has a cell phone - whether they live in a modern house or a mud hut! So here are some of my fav pictures of the people and "life" as we saw it.These kids live in huts behind Jason and Roxanne's house. They love to come to play on Anni's swings and write on her chalkboard.This is one of Roxanne's friends who stopped by one day to visit. Roxanne offered some of her yummy banana muffins that she keeps on hand for unexpected visitors.Jason took Jim on a walk one day to meet the neighbors who live in these huts near their house. These are similar to what we saw everywhere, though many have corrugated tin roofs rather than these thatched ones. Chickens, goats, cows are often seen roaming their yards as well Annikah enjoys their wooden carts as much as they like her swings. Roxanne explained that often older siblings will care for the younger ones as seen here.Shopping at the local "Target." You can see Jason and Roxanne to the right of the tree on the left. A cart full of goods. Most often we saw these pulled by cows, and sometimes donkeys; or if they don't own an animal, they pull the load themselves.

To be continued . . .